All Practical Information to Prepare Your Climbing Outing

 

Before starting your adventure, find here all the essential information to best organize your courses, outings, or climbing camps with Morgan. You will discover detailed rates, practice locations, weather information, and the necessary equipment to climb safely.

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, this information will help you approach the activity with confidence and fully enjoy your experience, on cliffs, in the gym, or in the Calanques. Morgan is available to answer any questions and assist you in preparing your project.

Climbing Courses / Cliff Climbing

  • Half-day: €150
  • Full day: €250
  • 2-hour course (cliff or gym): €100

These rates apply for groups of 1 to 10 people. For larger groups, please contact me for a personalized quote. Services are based on the “guide commitment” principle.

Multi-Pitch Routes

  • Half-day: from €150
  • Full day: from €250
  • Mini multi-pitch camps (3 days): €650

These rates are for 1 or 2 people on equipped routes and may vary depending on the length and difficulty of the route. Group multi-pitch outings: rates to be defined based on the project and group size.

Adventure Terrain: from €150, depending on the route, its length, and level of engagement.

High-Rope Courses: from €150 for private sessions, depending on the route and number of participants.

Rappelling (initiation, group workshops): from €30 per person. Rates may vary depending on group size and the project.

Camps: Multi-day camps available, up to one week. Rates to be defined based on duration, number of participants, and chosen activity.

Groups and Communities: Please contact me for any quote requests. Rates are adapted according to the project, activity, duration, and group size.

Please note that our activities take place outdoors, so we depend on the weather, and having the appropriate equipment ensures you can fully enjoy the experience rather than struggle with unforeseen conditions.

For any activity, it is important to have:

  • A pair of sports shoes (sneakers or hiking shoes)
  • Clothing suited to the weather (fleece, windbreaker, waterproof)
  • Sufficient water
  • A meal or snack appropriate for the activity (picnic for a full-day cliff outing, energy bars for multi-pitch routes…)
  • Hat, cap, sunglasses, and sunscreen depending on the weather
  • A backpack to carry everything

For technical and specific equipment, it will be provided and discussed in advance of the outing.

The first tip I can give if you plan outdoor climbing is to check the weather in advance and up until the day of your activity.

It may seem obvious, but the best climbing spots, near the sea or in the mountains, are often located in areas with a microclimate. To avoid any difficulties, make sure to consult the weather forecast carefully.

3-day weather forecast  MarseilleCassis et La Ciotat.

Most climbing sites are primarily accessible by car, but if you don’t have a vehicle, don’t worry! Nowadays, buses allow everyone to reach beautiful climbing routes. It’s practical and eco-friendly—definitely something to consider.

No car? Where can I climb?
One of the great advantages of climbing in the Calanques is its accessibility via public transport. In Marseille, it’s entirely possible to climb without a car. While this may add a few minutes to approach hikes, much of the massif is reachable. From central Marseille, you can reach many parking areas by bus, sometimes even faster than by car!

Access to Luminy and Morgiou (port) sectors

  • Bus lines B1 (Canebière/Luminy) and 24 (Ste Marguerite/Le Redon) drop you precisely at the start of the Luminy sectors.
  • To reach Morgiou, expect 30–40 minutes of walking to the village. Keep in mind the path climbs on the way back! This access is also useful when the Morgiou fire road is closed in summer, but the massif remains open.

First sectors of Morgiou

  • Line 22 takes you to the start of the fire road, serving Baumettes sectors or the previous stop for Escampons.

Sormiou sectors

  • Bus line 23 can take you, with a short walk, to Roy d’Espagne and La Colline de Lun sectors (less than 15 minutes).
  • More remote sectors, like Col de Sormiou, deeper in the calanque (~45 min) or Bec de Sormiou, require a longer hike from the nearest bus stop—best for full-day trips.

Marseilleveyre sectors

  • A great summer climbing valley with multiple north faces. Accessible via line 45 (Pastre) or line 19 (Vallon des Aiguilles, stop Grotte Rolland). From there, add 5–15 minutes walk to reach the sectors.

Les Goudes and Callelongue

  • These sectors are directly reachable by bus, but check bus frequency and last departures.
  • Use line 19 (Prado/Madrague Montredon) to the terminus, then line 20 to reach Les Goudes or the terminus depending on the sector.

Helpful link: RTM website

For climbing around Marseille and the Calanques, many climbers rely on trusted guidebooks and topos such as: FFME Calanques and surrounding areas Escalade Les CalanquesEscalade PhocéenneLa Ciotat.

One of the most popular references is the topo “Calanques Escalade”, published by Vtopo. You can find more information on their official site, www.vtopo.fr/roc-calanques-escalade.

The Calanques massif is a fragile environment and part of a National Park, so access is strictly regulated. It’s important to follow certain rules to preserve the area and ensure the continued right to access and practice outdoor activities.

This page provides useful links regarding legislation as well as practical, on-the-ground information to guide your choices and approach to climbing in Marseille.

One of the best ways to prepare for climbing in the Calanques is to use a local climbing guidebook, which compiles all necessary information on access and climbing practices. These links will also help you plan your outings.

How to get information?

 

Marseille offers climbers a variety of indoor climbing gyms, each with its own atmosphere and facilities. Your choice may depend on location, style, and type of climbing you prefer.

Mixed gyms (ropes and bouldering):

  • Altissimo – The largest gym in Marseille, with routes up to 16 meters high. You can also climb over 20 meters in lead climbing sections. The gym includes a large bouldering area, making it the most complete facility in Marseille.
  • La Boite à Grimpe – A smaller, more intimate gym with a bouldering area and an outdoor wall offering routes for all levels.

Rope walls:

  • Luminy – The university gym wall, ideal for rope climbing practice.

Bouldering gyms:

  • Bloc Session – A spacious, air-conditioned bouldering area in Bonneveine and downtown Marseille, opened in 2017 and expanded in 2020.
  • Climb Up (formerly Grimper) – A large gym dedicated exclusively to bouldering.
  • Arkose – A multifunctional complex including bouldering, restaurant, yoga, and sauna in central Marseille.

Pro tip:
My favorite is Altissimo, which I chose for giving courses. It combines the feel of outdoor climbing with tall rope routes and a large bouldering area, making it the most complete gym in Marseille. Most other gyms in the city focus mainly on bouldering.

The weather in Marseille is “almost always” mild, as locals will tell you—and it’s true! Only a few rainy days each year prevent climbing outdoors in the Calanques, and paradoxically, summer can be the most challenging season.

To choose the right sector, pay attention more to wind conditions than clouds or rainfall. This land-and-sea region is well-ventilated and dominated by two main winds: the east (or southeast) wind and the mistral, a northwest wind that can quickly chill the air. Generally, sea winds bring clouds and gray skies, while the mistral clears the sky and is accompanied by sunny weather.

Climbing in Mistral Conditions
The following sectors are pleasant even in winter, as they are exposed to the sun and sheltered from the cold mistral:

  • Callelongue / Les Goudes: Rocher des Goudes (south-facing), Rocher Saint Michel d’Eau Douce (south-facing), Flammes de Pierre
  • La Melette / Sormiou: La Bougie, L’Escu, L’Ilette, Circus Collègue, Parfumerie
  • Colline de Lun: south-facing walls, Luï d’Aï
  • Morgiou: Les Baumettes (Dalle à Péage), Terre du Milieu and upper sector, Royaume de Dégun, Anse du Figuier
  • Luminy: Paroi des Toits, Grotte de l’Ours, Igloo, Socle de la Candelle

Climbing in East Wind Conditions
East winds generally bring moisture. Avoid seaside cliffs and faces exposed to the sea, as the rock can become slippery. The most sheltered sectors include:

  • Marseilleveyre: Le Roy d’Espagne, Parangon, Château d’Eau, Pastre, Massilia
  • Callelongue / Les Goudes: Rocher Saint Michel d’Eau Douce (north/northwest), Paroi Jaune, Escaliers des Géants, Flammes de Pierre
  • Sormiou: Colline de Lun Compet, La Pinède, Le Pouce, L’Arche Perdue
  • Morgiou: Les Baumettes, Royaume de Dégun

Climbing in Summer or Hot Weather
To stay cool, prefer shaded sectors:

  • Vallon des Aiguilles: Massilia, RaggaWall, La Mitre, Col des Chèvres, Immadras
  • Callelongue / Les Goudes: North face of Rocher Saint Michel near the Saint Michel cave, Baume de la Mounine (east face in the afternoon), Secteur des Pintades (east/northeast)
  • Marseilleveyre: Roy d’Espagne, Fontaine de Voire

For sites slightly outside the Calanques: La Matrice and WuTang in the Vallon des Escourtines (near the cinema des Trois Palmes) are well sheltered and cooler.

This guide helps climbers select the best sector based on season, sun exposure, and wind, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable experience in the Calanques.

Choosing a Sector Based on Your Level

This brief selection can help you choose the right climbing sector, tailored to your planned outing and your skill level. This list is not exhaustive, as the Calanques are filled with cliffs offering routes for all levels, from beginners to advanced climbers.

If you are taking your first steps on the rock, bringing children, or introducing beginners to climbing, these sectors are perfect. They offer numerous easy routes ideal for initiation.

Marseilleveyre / Pastre
With more than 10 routes between 4 and 5b, this north-facing wall overlooking Pointe Rouge and Escale Borély provides a cool introduction on hot days. Access from Parc Pastre is relatively short.

Marseilleveyre / Roy d’Espagne
This sector features many easy routes, from 3 to 5a/b. The north-west facing cliff gets afternoon sun and is sheltered from the east wind. Its short access and varied routes make it popular, so expect slightly polished holds.

Parc des Baumettes
Starting from the Route du Feu in Morgiou, this is an initiation paradise with over twenty 3-4 routes and around thirty 5a/5b routes across seven small sectors. Very short approaches and large space at the base make it popular with groups and professionals. Routes are slightly polished due to frequent use.

Sormiou / Col de Sormiou
Two small sectors, north and south facing, offer about fifteen routes from 4a to 5b. Easy access with views of the sea and Sormiou village. Parking at the col is prohibited; use the Route du Feu parking and walk 10 minutes.

Sormiou / Le Pouce
Sheltered from the east wind, this sector has about a dozen routes from 3 to 5b. Paid parking (€5) is available at Sormiou. Short but steep approach (10 minutes). For children, it is safer to start higher up the road and descend a gentler path to the routes.

Sormiou / Petit Saussois and Oasis
A 10-minute walk leads to this initiation sector overlooking Sormiou Calanque. 10–15 easy routes (grades 2–4c) oriented east, ideal for beginners.

Sormiou / Apanau and Alibaba
For the more adventurous, with a longer and more technical approach, a few routes graded 3–4 offer initiation in a stunning setting. South-west facing cliffs with beautiful views of the Riou archipelago.

Rocher des Goudes – South Face
Well sheltered from the mistral, this cliff above Callelongue (40-minute climb) is suitable in winter. Many easy routes up to 5b/c and a few 6a. The climb rewards with magnificent views. Don’t miss the fun “Voie de la Fenêtre.”

Escalier des Géants
Sheltered from winds if not too strong, this sector at the valley’s bottom is quickly accessible. Less than 10 minutes on a flat path from the avenue des cabanons in Callelongue. The cirque shape offers all orientations: south, southeast, southwest in the corridor, northwest on the right sector. Over ten routes below 5b can be found here.

Jardin d’Enfants
20 minutes from Les Goudes, this versatile sector has 6 routes below 5b on a 15m south-facing cliff with slab climbing on white limestone. There are also over 10 routes from 5c to 6a+.

If you climb indoors and want to try outdoor rock, or if you are a beginner looking for moderate routes to progress, these sectors are perfect. For those starting lead climbing, these areas offer suitable challenges.

Pastré
With over 25 routes at this level, this north-facing wall overlooking Pointe Rouge and Escale Borély provides cool climbing on hot days. Short access from Parc Pastre makes it convenient. Its popularity has led to slightly polished holds.

Massilia
A beautiful north-facing wall with breathtaking views of the Marseille harbor. Sheltered from east wind (if mild) and from the mistral on the left side. 13 routes at the intermediate level. Ideal for warm days, but access requires a 30-minute uphill walk, so bring water.

Callelongue / Les Goudes Sectors

Escalier des Géants
About 15 routes at this level, spread over two south and southwest-facing walls. Sheltered from east wind.

Flammes de Pierre
Circular cliff divided into three sectors: Winter Wall, Summer Wall, and the Cirque. Offers climbing sheltered from east wind and mistral, suitable year-round depending on sector choice. 6–7 routes at the intermediate level, 20–30 meters high.

Sormiou Sectors

Colline de Lun
Popular with groups, 27 routes at this level. Various orientations allow choosing sun or shade, most routes are south-facing and sheltered from mistral. Heights 15–30 meters.

Parfumerie
As the name suggests, sometimes faint scents in the air. Best visited during mistral, as the sector is south-facing and smells are minimal. Almost all 20 routes are at the intermediate level.

Spigaou
East-facing, easy access (10 minutes), often used by groups. 17 routes at the intermediate level above Sormiou Calanque. Slightly polished.

Tiragne
A stunning typical Calanques sector at the tip of Bec de Sormiou. Beautiful sea-facing routes with views of the Riou archipelago. Requires 40 minutes of walking with some technical sections—ropes recommended. Around 20 routes at the intermediate level. Sunscreen mandatory; swimsuit and towel optional.

Arche Perdue
25-minute walk from the port to enjoy north-west facing slabs. 13 of the 18 routes are at the intermediate level, 20–25 meters high.

Morgiou Sectors

Roche Percée
Small cliff 15–25 meters high, south-facing, just before Morgiou village. All 22 routes are at the intermediate level on slabs or slightly vertical walls.

Abri Côtier
Cabins, port, and sea below—you’re in the heart of the Calanques. South-west facing, easy access (6 minutes), routes slightly polished. Around 10 routes at the intermediate level, 20–30 meters high.

These sectors offer a wide range of routes, allowing intermediate climbers to enjoy moderate climbs or challenge themselves on more technical lines to progress.

Ragga Wall
This sector above Pointe Rouge is dominated by intermediate routes. A short 10-minute approach brings you to shaded walls until early afternoon. Sculpted rock with technical and vertical climbing.

Metallika
Also in Vallon des Aiguilles above Pointe Rouge, a north/northwest-facing wall reachable in 10 minutes. Around 10 routes at this level. Technical climbing on the left, more athletic near the cave on the right. Perfect for summer mornings until 3 pm.

Col des Chèvres
Shaded and well-ventilated, ideal for summer. Routes range from 6a to 7a, featuring fine-grained rock, slab or vertical sections, and some crack climbing. Requires a good 30-minute uphill approach via Pas de la Chèvre.

Escaliers des Géants
Not only easy routes here; ideal for climbers between 6a–6c. Quick 10-minute approach on flat terrain. Routes face all directions, from south to northwest, allowing sun or shade climbing depending on conditions. Start at Callelongue.

Nid d’Aigle
From Col de Sormiou, 40-minute approach downhill (save energy for the return). Many 6th-grade routes with slabs, dihedrals, and overhangs. South-facing with stunning sea views, but the mistral enters the cirque.

L’Escu
A wilder sector accessed by rappel or a 50-minute walk from Sormiou road start. South-facing, perfect in winter when mistral cools temperatures. Over 25 routes, 6a–6c+, 30–35 meters. Sculpted limestone typical of the Calanques.

Roy d’Espagne
More than 30 routes, 6a+–6c+, over three close sectors. North then northwest-facing, lightly sun-exposed. Short approach, accessible by bus. Demanding routes on beautiful slabs, ~20 meters.

Fontaine d’Ivoire
North-facing for sun protection. Quick access from Bonneveine. About a dozen upper 6th-grade routes, ~30 meters long. Sparse traffic, technical challenges, ideal for route reading practice.

Colline de Lun
West and south-facing, ~20 routes at this level. Quick access from Sormiou road start. Mild mistral protection, sculpted limestone. Routes 15–30 meters, mostly slabs, some slightly overhanging.

Tiragne
35-minute technical approach from Sormiou with harness and handline. Remote feel, well-sculpted slabs and steep walls. Full sun, views over the islands. 23 routes, 25–35 meters.

Le Virage
15-minute approach from Luminy. South/southeast-facing, about 15 routes 6a+–6c, some in 7th grade. Style ranges from sculpted vertical walls to athletic overhangs. Sea views.

Bonne Mère
For isolation seekers. Northwest-facing wall on Mont Puget (Luminy). 5 long routes, 30–35 meters, 6b–6c+.

Grotte de l’Ours
Renowned for high-level climbing. Left and right sides of a large overhang feature ~12 routes 6a+–6c+. Technical left routes, athletic right routes. 30-minute walk from Luminy University.

Sectors for Advanced Climbers – Performance and Technical Challenges

These areas will test your technical and physical skills: precise foot placement, grip strength, and route reading are essential.


Fontaine d’Ivoire

  • Routes: 12, long and demanding, continuous climbing with no bouldering sections
  • Orientation: North
  • Approach: 10 minutes, also accessible by bus

Safer Sex

  • Routes: 6, overhanging and athletic
  • Orientation: North / Northwest
  • Approach: 20-minute hike from Boulevard de Marseilleveyre

Métallika / La Mitre

  • Routes: 13, steep sculpted wall, very technical on the left, more athletic on the right
  • Orientation: West to North
  • Approach: 10 minutes, very quick access from Boulevard de Marseilleveyre

Col des Chèvres

  • Routes: 8, 25–30 meters, vertical and demanding, good footwork required
  • Orientation: East / Northeast
  • Approach: Around 25 minutes via the famous “Pas de la Chèvre” in the Vallon des Aiguilles

Paroi Jaune

  • Routes: 8, long and continuous, up to 40 meters, be mindful of rope length
  • Orientation: West
  • Approach: 25-minute hike from Callelongue

Virage

  • Routes: About 10, athletic climbs on good holds in a nice overhang
  • Orientation: Southeast
  • Approach: Easy, 20 minutes from Luminy

Paroi des Toits

  • Routes: 50+, impressive overhanging wall, lots of big but rounded holds
  • Orientation: South, can be very hot even in winter
  • Approach: Around 40 minutes from Luminy

Socle de la Candelle – Bivouac de Tours / Igloo / VO2max

  • Routes: 20–25, following the cliff edge, some are first pitches of multi-pitch routes
  • Orientation: Southwest, sun-exposed in winter
  • Approach: 45 minutes from Luminy, more isolated and less crowded

Oasis

  • Routes: Around 10, steep wall with small holds, homogeneous climbing, height ~20 meters
  • Orientation: Southwest
  • Approach: 30 minutes from Luminy, requires good morale

High-Level Sectors – Overhangs, Small Holds, and Core Strength Required!

Although these grades are not the most common in the Calanques, there are a few areas offering very hard climbs. Expect overhangs, small holds, and routes that demand strong core and endurance! Only a handful of sectors feature numerous very hard climbs. Look for overhangs and caves, such as:


La Grotte de l’Ours

  • Routes: 5 in 7b/7c and around a dozen between 8a and 9
  • Style: Horizontal climbing, athletic style, roofs and huge overhangs
  • Approach: 30 minutes from Luminy, southwest-facing, well sheltered from the mistral
  • Season: Best in winter; can become very hard in hot weather
  • Notes: Offers some “friendly” grades, e.g., the famous Parfum Sauvage, first 7c of all Marseillais

La Paroi des Toits

  • Routes: 6 in 8a/8a+, 4 above 8b, and around 20 classics between 7b+ and 7c+
  • Highlights: Must-do routes include Avec vue sur la mer (7c) and the 7c+ trilogy: Cimetière d’Éléphant, La Traversée du Désert, Pacific
  • Orientation: Full sun, protected from the mistral, shadows appear quickly from the Aiguille de Sugiton
  • Approach: 30 minutes from Luminy
  • Notes: Perfect for winter; avoid with east winds. Requires endurance and continuous climbing on big rounded holds.

La Grotte de l’Hermite

  • Routes: 7 routes from 7b+ to 7c+, 7 routes from 8a to 9a
  • Orientation: West, shaded in the morning
  • Style: Athletic overhangs on sculpted rock
  • Notes: Ideal for occupying the first part of hot days; be careful of seepage that can affect climbing for days after rain

Les Cabanons

  • Routes: 15 from 7b+ to 8a+
  • Location: Just above the small village of Morgiou (7-minute walk)
  • Orientation: North
  • Style: Smooth white rock, technical climbing, challenging to read, with generally “hard” perceived grades

L’Oasis

  • Routes: Around 10 from 7b+ to 9a
  • Style: Less athletic than neighboring sectors; slight overhangs and small arched holds, high resistance required
  • Orientation: Southwest, ideal for mid-season
  • Approach: 40 minutes from Luminy
  • Notes: Some routes have spaced protection allowing full movement without interference from clipping

Nearby High-Level Sectors

  • Roquevaire: La Grande Face (Graffiti) and Minisud
  • La Barasse (near La Valentine): Two elite summer sectors – La Matrice and Wu Tang, over 25 routes beyond 7c
  • Reference: These sectors are included in the Escalade Phocéenne guide

Morgan Climbing in Marseille

Have a question, a booking, or need advice for your outing?

I offer a wide range of adventure routes in the Calanques National Park, as well as beginner or advanced climbing courses in the gym. To learn more about my activities, feel free to explore all the sections of the website.